Questions before buying

[madrian]

Hi,

I have some pre-sale question.

I would like to buy the Mini V3 KIT version as my current budget is limited. I have a 3D printer so I can print my own case.

1. Can I use the Fireboard's FAN with Wlanthermo? It is a 12V fan, comes with the adapters I need: https://www.fireboard.com/shop/drive-blower-20cfm/
1b. If this fan is compatible, do I need any extra addon such as "Pitmaster connectors"?
2. Should I go with the K-Type sensor addon (I have a Kamado)? If I am not wrong these sensors are for higher temperatures.
3. Currently I have an Inkbird device. Can I use these temp. probes without any problem? Are they good enough?

I am just curious, where are the graphs on the demo page? https://demo.wlanthermo.de/

Thank you,

 

[s.ochs]

Hi madrian,

welcome to your wlanthermo community!

1. I don't think anyone has tried that yet. Do you have a Fireboard or how do you come up with the use of a FB fan? In principle it would work, since it is a normal 12 V fan. But the power consumption of 8 W seems much too high to me. The problem with the large power consumption is that the power loss in the thermo is then also very large -> large warming. The Pitmaster circuit from the Mini V3 is only intended for a draw of 6 W at 12 V.

Unfortunately, the data sheet does not state exactly which connector is used. Probably 5.5x2.5 mm, but I'm not sure. Either cut off the existing connector and solder on a 3.5x1.3mm connector or build an adapter yourself.
Which kamado should be operated with it? 20 cfm is usually way too much for any kamado.

2. The type K addon is not mandatory. It's an option. With a thermocouple you can theoretically measure oven temperatures over 300 °C (be careful with the cable). You know best whether you need it. Most of the time, however, the thermometer is intended for low & slow temperatures, i.e. temperatures well below 200 °C.

3. Which Inkbird do you have? Most Inkbird probes will work, but they are not ideal for a pitmaster operation. They are missing the grounding contact on the cable jacket. Together with a power adapter, this can lead to slight "trembling" in the measurement. Inkbird probes are only intended for a battery operation. If you work with a power bank, you can bypass the effect, or you can manually place a small earth bridge on the cable shield. But I would at least get a "better" probe for measuring the cooking space, e.g. a 1000K/Maverick.

Do you have soldering experience?

Regardings,
Steffen

 

[madrian]

Hi madrian,

welcome to your wlanthermo community!

Thank you for the reply.

1. I don't think anyone has tried that yet. Do you have a Fireboard or how do you come up with the use of a FB fan? In principle it would work, since it is a normal 12 V fan. But the power consumption of 8 W seems much too high to me. The problem with the large power consumption is that the power loss in the thermo is then also very large -> large warming. The Pitmaster circuit from the Mini V3 is only intended for a draw of 6 W at 12 V.

I liked the FB fan's construction and where I live I can buy it around 50€ with included adapters.

I think it will be a simple blow type fan, if not I have some extra 50 fans at home. 8W is for power supply, I really think the actual fan will be lower wattage. I will test with my bench power supply. Anyway we can limit the current draw by limiting DCmax in WLANThermo, or not?

Unfortunately, the data sheet does not state exactly which connector is used. Probably 5.5x2.5 mm, but I'm not sure. Either cut off the existing connector and solder on a 3.5x1.3mm connector or build an adapter yourself.
Which kamado should be operated with it? 20 cfm is usually way too much for any kamado.

They use 5.5x2.5mm. I added a 3.5x1.3 from your shop, I will replace it/or make an adapter for it.

I have two Kamado's. First is a Joe Classic II size, with grate 45cm and another mini Kamado with 35cm grate.

What worries my is what you wrote that 20cfm will be too much and I see that in your shop you have a 7.5cfm/12V. Theoretically I can limit the airflow with DCMax setting, or not?

2. The type K addon is not mandatory. It's an option. With a thermocouple you can theoretically measure oven temperatures over 300 °C (be careful with the cable). You know best whether you need it. Most of the time, however, the thermometer is intended for low & slow temperatures, i.e. temperatures well below 200 °C.

True, when I go above 300C usually they are fast cookings (Pizza, direct grilling etc.).

3. Which Inkbird do you have? Most Inkbird probes will work, but they are not ideal for a pitmaster operation. They are missing the grounding contact on the cable jacket. Together with a power adapter, this can lead to slight "trembling" in the measurement. Inkbird probes are only intended for a battery operation. If you work with a power bank, you can bypass the effect, or you can manually place a small earth bridge on the cable shield. But I would at least get a "better" probe for measuring the cooking space, e.g. a 1000K/Maverick.

It is IBT 6XS. https://inkbird.com/products/ibt-6xs

Do you have soldering experience?

I have, even with soldering SMD by hands. I assembled some DIY smart led controllers earlier. From what I saw in the building guide, I hope I can build by myself.


For the Pitmaster function: I am translating the forum from German and what I read the recommended way to use Pitmaster is to build a stable fire/stabilize temperature (with installed fan, or without?) and then turn on the auto Pitmaster?


Thanks again,
Adrian

 

[s.ochs]

Hi Adrian,

8W is for power supply, I really think the actual fan will be lower wattage.

possible

Anyway we can limit the current draw by limiting DCmax in WLANThermo, or not?

yes you can, but the current consumption is not completely linear. Depending on the fan, the current can remain relatively the same with a lower voltage. Although this reduces the power consumption, the losses in the circuit remain due to the high current.
Important: make sure that the power supply unit on the Thermo is sufficiently powerful. 2.5A or more.

I have two Kamado's. First is a Joe Classic II size, with grate 45cm and another mini Kamado with 35cm grate.

20 cfm is definitely too much for that
20 cfm = 34 m³/h = 0,57 m³/min
estimated volume classic II: 0,06 m³
-> complete mixing of the entire volume in 6s !!!
You want to smoke your meat and not blow dry

It is IBT 6XS. https://inkbird.com/products/ibt-6xs

Yes, these are the standard 50 kohm probes from Inkbird. Thin cable, without ground connection on cable shield. 6XS is a only battery operated device.

I have, even with soldering SMD by hands. I assembled some DIY smart led controllers earlier. From what I saw in the building guide, I hope I can build by myself.

Should work. Otherwise we can also completely finish soldering the circuit boards from the kit. Just let me/us know.

For the Pitmaster function: I am translating the forum from German and what I read the recommended way to use Pitmaster is to build a stable fire/stabilize temperature (with installed fan, or without?) and then turn on the auto Pitmaster?

A possible way. But you can also start directly with the fan. The important thing is that you give the system time. Low&Slow starts with making fire. Small bed of embers, let the fan build up, close the exhaust air as far as possible in good time. If the bed of embers is too strong, the automatic Pitmaster cannot do anything. The most common mistake for poor control behavior is a grill configured incorrectly by the user.

Steffen

 

[s.ochs]

If it doesn't have to be pretty: take one of your available fans (< 10 cfm) and build an adapter from a piece of sheet metal and inch fittings from the hardware store. Cost: 10 €

 

[madrian]

If it doesn't have to be pretty: take one of your available fans (< 10 cfm) and build an adapter from a piece of sheet metal and inch fittings from the hardware store. Cost: 10 €

I am going this way. I have the Sunon MF50151V1-A99 7.65 m3/h blower. I found the blower house design here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4460988 - this is the official or the official one is not open sourced? In the files I found 3/4 inch version only, the 1 inch version (in the Shop I see 1 inch version & Guru) is not available somewhere?

 

[s.ochs]

I have the Sunon MF50151V1-A99 7.65 m3/h blower.

I found the blower house design here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4460988 - this is the official or the official one is not open sourced?

Both versions come from the same development. They are compatible with each other. The version on thingiverse is more suitable for DIY builders. You can find the 1 inch plug here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4634594/files
looking for -> 3_1ZollPlug_N2_*.stl

 

[madrian]

Awesome, thank for your help. Later I will post pictures, If I will succeed. . Next week I place order in your shop for the Wlanthermo, but first I want to finish the blower.

 

[madrian]

I made some progress on the blower and on the BBQ Guru adapter clone .

 

[madrian]

Thanks Steffen, the kit arrived today. I am happy that it arrived in 2 days. Total assembly time was around 45 minutes. Only two extra self-tapping screws remain. Everything worked for first try, even the fan. Can't wait to try out at the weekend.



I'm sure I'll have more questions in the future. Now I am trying out all the functions and trying to discover all the features.

Two questions come to my mind:

- For the Sunon MF50151V1-A99 & mid sized Kamado, do you recommend any changes to the default PID & fan values?
- Is there any way to connect two individual fan? Maybe trough servo connection? I have 2 kamado next to each other and it would be great to manage both with Pitmaster.
- Do you accept translations for the project?

 

[s.ochs]

Thanks for your experience report! I'm glad the assembly worked right away. Looks good!

For the Sunon MF50151V1-A99 & mid sized Kamado, do you recommend any changes to the default PID & fan values?

Not necessary for starters. First of all, make sure that the Kamado reacts correctly to the fan.

Is there any way to connect two individual fan? Maybe trough servo connection? I have 2 kamado next to each other and it would be great to manage both with Pitmaster.

No. Mini V3 has ONE independent Pitmaster. So just one comparison calculation from the actual and target temperature is possible.

Do you accept translations for the project?

You can create a fork of the github project, integrate your own language pack and continue the updates for your device independently.
We hesitate to officially integrate different languages for one reason: most of the time the support is only available for the current state. With every update that affects the language pack, we have to see where the new translations come from. Unfortunately, we have had bad experiences in the past.

 

[madrian]

Thank you for the answers. Maybe for my second Kamado I will buy later one more device.

If it is possible, please add me to the Testflight group for the iOS app.

 

[madrian]

First test today:



I think I am more than happy. It worked so well, what do you think?

Today I tried only with an empty Kamado. Slightly pre-warmed the Kamado (dome was little bit warm to touch), then installed Wlanthermo & fan. At the very beginning was one overshoot, but then Wlanthermo learned well the characteristics of the Kamado and it was rock solid. At the end I tested the "lid watching" feature and worked perfectly. After closing the lid, Wlanthermo waited ca. 5 minutes with turning on the fan, also there was a little overshoot (understandable), then corrected itself. That's for today. I had no more time to continue the test. It is a great device.

 

[s.ochs]

The overshoot is a result of too much air / energy in the system. But it's probably because you tried it with an empty Kamado. The significance of an empty test is small, since the meat has a decisive influence - it "takes" a lot of energy. So try it with meat next time, it's more fun too

 

[madrian]

So here is the result from an actual cooking with some ribs. I am happy with the result.




I wish there was the cloud's graph in the iOS app in the future. Also zooming function on the cloud's graph + a crosshair vertical line would be awesome.